A Taste of Asagaya: Serenity in Western Tokyo

Asagaya is a residential neighborhood west of Shinjuku, located 15-20 minutes away from JR Shinjuku station on the Chuo line. Despite not boasting as many attractions as famous areas such as Shibuya or Roppongi, this area of Suginami Ward offers peace of mind as well as entertainment for those passing through while in Tokyo. Today we are going to dive into this sleepy little corner of a hectic city to clue you into some hidden gems and must-see destinations.

What to do?

Asagaya Shinmeigu Shrine

Asagaya Shinmeigu Shrine (阿佐ヶ谷神明宮) is located about 5 minutes from the JR Asagaya station’s east exit. Despite not being as big as other shrines in Tokyo, Asagaya Shinmeigu feels wide and spacious due to its open space and greenery shielding the grounds from the busy traffic and buildings nearby.

As one of the oldest shrines in Tokyo at over 1,000 years old, it is known as a place to ward off evil. At this shrine, visitors can take part in “hachinan-yoke,” (八難除), which is a prayer ritual to ward off disasters, especially during unlucky years (yaku-doshi). As well as making offerings at the shrine, visitors can also buy bracelets and charms for good luck in education, driving commuting, and safe pregnancies. Either way, this shrine offers a reprieve from the outside world to reflect on and collect oneself on your travels.

Asagaya Shinmeigu Shrine on Google Maps

Asagaya Shinmeigu Shrine (Japanese only)

Hours of operation: 6:00 am to 5:00 pm daily

Admission: free

A-San no Niwa

A-San no Niwa (Aさんの庭) was originally a Western-style house surrounded by roses and was nicknamed “rose house” and “Totoro’s house,” as locals felt that Totoro (the magical character from a Studio Ghibli movie, would like to live in that sort of place. Sadly, after the owner moved away, the house was burned down in 2009. However, upon learning of what happened to “Totoro’s house,” Hayao Miyazaki, the Ghibli director, designed a house and park to be built where the original once stood, which was reconstructed in 2010.

While the iconic house has been turned into a public restroom, the park offers a simple beauty in its suburban neighborhood. It features a sun tiger pump well (which is currently not in operation) and an open deck patio area for people to sit and be surrounded by the greenery around them. This park charm allows visitors to feel the easy-going atmosphere Ghibli movies are known for. As a heads up, this park is a 15 to 20-minute walk northeast of JR Asagaya, but worth the time and effort for those who want to see Hayao Miyazaki’s artistic touch firsthand.

A-San no Niwa on Google Maps

A-San no Niwa on the Suginami Ward site (Japanese only)

Hours of operation: Open 24 hours

Admission: free

Asagaya Pearl Center

Asagaya Pearl Center is the biggest shopping area in the neighborhood, offering over half a kilometer’s worth of eateries, shops, and services to locals and visitors alike. Located at the southern end of JR Asagaya station, you’ll be protected from the hot sun or cold winds with the window roof covering the pedestrian pathway as visitors go about shopping. From coffee shops, grocery stores, gyms, and clothing stores to ethnic restaurants (both Japanese and overseas), visitors have access to almost anything they want at Asagaya Pearl Center.

Asagaya Pearl Center on Google Maps

Asagaya Pearl Center on Suginami Tokyo site (English)

Hours of operations: 9:00 am to 7:00 pm daily

Laputa Asagaya

Laputa Asagaya is a theater tucked away in a corner of Suginami’s Asagaya neighborhood that specializes in playing old Japanese films, mostly from the 1950s and 1960s. The staff there speaks some English and will be happy to help answer questions about the films playing on its second floor. There’s also a neat gift shop located on the first floor. The entrance is hidden under the shade of nearby trees, making it a hidden gem if you’re interested in old Japanese films, though most of them won’t have English subtitles. Laputa Asagaya is located 10 minutes on foot northwest of JR Asagaya station.

Laputa Asagaya on Google Maps

Laputa Asagaya site (Japanese only)

Hours of operations: 10:30 am to 11:00 pm daily

What to eat?

Tsukishima Monjayaki

Located near the entrance of the Asagaya Pearl Center, Tsukishima Monjayaki Okoge (月島もんじゃおこげ) offers guests a traditional Japanese-style dish, the aforementioned monjayaki. Monjayaki is a mix of ingredients (usually vegetables with mixed meats like pork, chicken, etc.) and a liquid batter that is fried on a skillet at your table, with staff mixing the ingredients in front of guests. The result is a fresh hot meal that’s easy to cut up with your plate’s own mini-spatula, but surprisingly filling once it’s finished.

Tsukishima Monja Okoge on Google Maps

Tsukishima Monja Okoge on Tabelog (English)

Hours of operation: 10:45 am to 11:00 pm weekdays, 10:30 am to 11:00 pm weekends

Taiyaki Tomoean

Taiyaki (たい焼き) is a fish-shaped pancake pastry filled with red bean (azuki) or other sweets. Located further into Asagaya Pearl Center, this taiyaki booth offers the famous Japanese snack, along with its signature shiratama-taiyaki (taiyaki with a small white mochi ball inside). Tomoean also offers visitors rennyu-mochi (練乳餅), which is mochi (soft rice cakes) mixed with milk along with shaved ice (かき氷). Their Renyu-mochi is on sale from May until October to help beat the heat. Anyone with a sweet tooth for Japanese desserts will be spoiled for choice here.

Taiyaki Tomoean on Google Maps

Taiyaki Tomoean site (Japanese only)

Hours of operation: 11:00 am to 7:30 pm Tuesday to Sunday (closed on Monday)

Pan no Tajima

Along with Japanese specialties like monjayaki, there are many restaurants visitors choose to enjoy a meal at, a select few of which we’ll mention here today. The first one is “Pan no Tajima,” which serves small loaves of bread with special added ingredients. It’s similar to the peanut butter or red bean bread loaves that can be bought at convenience stores in Japan but of much higher quality. Ranging from sweets such as blueberries or chocolate to more traditional foods like potato salad or meats such as beef or fish, guests can find a quick snack of their choice here.

Pan no Tajima on Instagram (Japanese only)

Pan no Tajima on Google Maps

Hours of operation: 8:00 am to 7:00 pm daily

Tik.Top Biryani Restaurant

If Indian-Nepalese dishes are on the menu while in Asagaya, visitors can try curry or biryani for lunch if they want. Further down in Asagaya Pearl Center, this restaurant offers the tried-and-true favorites of naan curry to savory samosa snacks. This restaurant makes dishes from South and Southeast Asia, ensuring anyone with a taste for food from those regions will have something to enjoy when they sit down for a meal.

Tik.Top Biryani Restaurant on Google Maps

Tik.Top Biryani Restaurant on Tabelog (Japanese only)

Hours of operation: 11:00 am to 10:30 pm daily

Asagaya in western Tokyo has many things for visitors to indulge in, such as the restaurants and shops in Asagaya Pearl Center to its famous shrine, the Asagaya Shinmeigu. Some locales are more of an acquired taste, like Laputa Asagaya with its showing of classic Japanese films. There is also the hidden gem that is A-San no Niwa, a park designed by the legendary Hayao Miyazaki. While not as famous as Odaiba or Akihabara, Asagaya offers plenty of history and leisurely activities for those wanting to unwind and get away from the hustle and bustle of big city life in Tokyo.

Featured Photo Credit: Joseph Magtibay

Coming to Tokyo to check out Asagaya and want to see more of the city? Book your local guide to learn more about Japanese food and culture.