Taste of Hamamatsucho: The Gateway to Edo

When you want to take a deep breath while watching seagulls and feel the history of Tokyo, Hamamatsucho is the best place for you. Takeshiba Pier, near Hamamatsucho, is a must-see location for anime fans, as it is a key scene in the 2019 award-winning anime Weathering with You, where teens who run away from a remote island arrive in Tokyo. I guarantee you that you will be able to relax whilst walking around the seaside. Don’t forget to visit the well-known Hiroshige’s Nishiki-e made 200 years ago, only found at the National Diet Library, definitely a must for the area. So now that you know a tiny bit of what makes this area so amazing, let’s take a deeper dive and find out exactly what there is to see, do and eat when you travel to Hamamatsucho!

What To Do?

Zojoji Temple, the Gateway To Edo

Whilst perusing the many souvenir shops across the city, you probably saw a photo card, or two, of the amazing Zojoji Temple with Tokyo Tower in the background. Zojoji images were also popular 200 years ago, with plenty of these infamous artworks being created by the great Hiroshige. A man who is best known for his landscape series The Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido.

Zojoji Temple is one of the largest temples along the Tokaido Road, the main road from Kyoto to Edo. The temple became a well-known landmark as it was popular with tourists who had just arrived in Edo.

You can check out more of these Nishiki-e (color woodblock prints) at the National Diet Library’s special exhibition website: https://www.ndl.go.jp/landmarks/e/places/zojoji/

Google Maps Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/9eXNntHBnzd5fC6S9

Hama-Rikyu Gardens; Reclaimed Land From Edo Bay

In addition to Zojoji temple, Hama-rikyu Gardens is also a famous landmark of Hamamatsucho. It might be hard to believe today, but this garden was built upon Edo Bay in the late 17th century since there was a shortage of land and feudal lords needed to reclaim space to live. Can you believe that Shogun had permitted his loyal federal lords to build their houses on the sea?

The garden was a shogunate’s guest house for loyal families from Kyoto as well as visitors from other countries. After that, in the late 19th century, American naval officer Matthew Perry led the American fleet to Edo Bay during the period of national isolation, and Edo fell into great turmoil. The shogunate tried to defend those fleets with guns from Hamarikyu Gardens. In 1854 one year later, Perry succeeded in opening Japan to American trade through a series of treaties. I think it is safe to say that there is no shortage of history here.

Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hama-riky%C5%AB_Gardens

Google Maps Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/BNunk8jTDAk8gqxW8

Takeshiba Pier, the Gateway To Izu Islands, and Hinode Pier For A Short Trip To Asakusa

Just a 5-minute walk from JR Hamamatsucho station, Takeshiba Pier has been used as a base for regular ships to the Izu Islands. Takeshiba connects Tokyo and the “Izu Islands” by ferry. So you can easily visit and experience the islands for yourself on your travels. For example, travelers can reach the closest island Oshima by jet ferry in only 1 hour and 45 minutes. Takeshiba Pier also has a shop and information center, so you can make sure you’re completely prepared to enjoy and relax on your trip.

With Hinode Pier, located next to Takeshiba, you can take a short trip by sea bus. One of them goes to Asakusa, and I guarantee you that you can be immediately free from busy days in the city after the ship departs. Construction of Hinode, Shibaura, and Takeshiba Pier originally started to transport relief supplies after the Great Kanto Earthquake hit Tokyo in 1923. In 1941, all construction was completed and it officially opened as Tokyo Port.

Tokai Kisen Official Website: https://tokyoislands.jp/

Google Maps Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/LB9gC31NcRa9E8eN8

Monorail, the Future Transportation From Haneda International Airport

You may have already taken a monorail from Haneda International Airport, so why not find out a little more about this great transportation system? The Tokyo Monorail is one of the oldest monorails in Japan that makes the trip to Hamamatsucho. It was built in 1964 when Shinakanse was created for the Tokyo Olympics. Believed to be the future of transportation, it was the first to connect to Hamamatsucho since the government tried to gather all new things here with the “World Trade Center Building” the tallest Japanese building in the ’60s. However, you are currently not able to see the building as it has been demolished for reconstruction.

By the way, have you noticed that there are many World Center Buildings around the world? The World Trade Centers Association was established in 1968. There are a whopping 323 buildings globally!

Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Worldぬ_Trade_Centers

Tokyo Monorail Website: http://www.tokyo-monorail.co.jp/english/

There is one more important piece of history I would like to add that helped make Hamamatsucho the perfect place to build both the Monorail and the World Trading Center Building. Not to mention a little history on why Tokyo Tower was built in this amazing city as well.

You may know one of the most famous Japanese companies, Toshiba. The company was originally based in Hamamatsucho when the area was originally called “Shiba” or “Shiba-ura.” Thus the “shiba” in Toshiba came from the city’s old name.

Moving onto a bit of history about Tokyo Tower now. Hamamatsucho, Shimbashi, and Minatoku-Atagoyama are known for their several radio and TV channels (Nippon Cultural Broadcasting Inc., Nippon TV, NHK). So, Tokyo Tower was built just for those companies. As proof of this, the official name of Tokyo Tower is also known as “Japan Radio Tower.”

Interesting right? You can read more about the history of Tokyo Tower, described by the Government of Japan here.

So this area was developed from reclaimed land, it always developed new and amazing ways to increase commerce and trade for the area. And this is part of the reason why Tokyo Tower, the World Trade Center, and Monorail were here. New technology has always been born from Hamamatsucho.

Where To Eat At Hamamatsucho

Yakatabune (Houseboat)

Yakatabune is a traditional Japanese houseboat also available from Hamamatsucho. Depending on the season, you can enjoy experiences such as fireworks or cherry blossom viewing from a boat cruising Sumida River. At houseboats, you can enjoy tempura, sushi and drinks while relaxing and enjoying the night view of Tokyo.

Website: https://nawayasu.com/en/

Sarashina Nunoya (Soba Restaurant)

This restaurant has been located at Zojoji Temple for over 220 years and the owner is currently the 7th generation. Their soba noodles are hand-ground using a stone mill, providing their unique flavor and appearance. Since the Edo period, soba restaurants like Sarashina Nunoya have been serving good inexpensive sake too. They also serve seasonal soba, which mixes seasonal scents into soba noodles. For example, in January you will find chili pepper, plum in February, cherry in March, shiso in June, and so on.

You can experience the culture of the Edo people through a variety of drinks and dishes. “Please enjoy the flavor that has been passed down as a family tradition and the playfulness of the craftsmen,” the owner has explained.

Website: http://www.sarashina-nunoya.com/

Google Maps Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/veuGNEwZhagJrJzt7

Menu (English): http://www.sarashina-nunoya.com/files/4114/2659/8123/Sarashinanunoya_menu.pdf

Okame Sushi

They make traditional Edomae sushi that incorporates the elegance and techniques that have been passed down from chef to chef for generations. A tradition that has continued for over 160 years since the Edo period. They have been making sushi since 1856 here in Shiba, Tokyo. You can enjoy their traditional Edo-mae sushi.

Fumihiko Nagatani, the fifth-generation restaurant owner, visits the Toyosu fish market every morning for the finest fish of the day. He loves sake and, incredibly, fishing. He spends his entire weekend fishing with a traditional Japanese bamboo rod. His passion for this activity has led him to appear in many magazines and on TV.

Website: https://www.okamesushi.com/en

Google Maps Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/ZiqqHgwbkYugbcfo6

TERA CAFE SHIEN -ZOJOJI-

A cafe located within the Zojoji Temple. You can forget the hustle and bustle of the city and enjoy the slow and elegant time and space at the temple. There are plenty of delectable treats for you to lose yourself in such as fresh Mont Blanc, made with Japanese chestnuts from Ibaraki). Or why not try your hand at the Matcha Affogato a matcha version of Affogato, which is an Italian coffee-based dessert

Website: https://www.teracafeshien-zojoji.com/

Google Maps Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/qZEEbjDDFD6gfDqx5

SCHMATZ Beer Dining

Schmatz is a beer restaurant that serves authentic craft German beer and modern German cuisine. In addition to traditional sausages, you can always enjoy Germany’s trending street food and various styles of craft beer. In fact they have 6 different types of barrels on tap every day, so guests are sure to be able to find the perfect beer for both their taste and mood.

Website: https://www.schmatz.jp/pages/location

Google Maps Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/5qZXqBYW77T46dhu8

During your visit to Hamamatsucho, you can certainly feel how people at Edo see the big Zojoji temple after a long journey along the Tokaido. There are still pine forests in front of the temple, just like the ones depicted in the 200-year-old Nishiki-e. You can also tell just how much technology has been developed in Hamamatsucho. Tokyo Tower, World Trade Center Building, Monorail from Haneda International Airport, Tokyo Port, or Takeshiba Pier as Izu Islands ferry base are the perfect examples of exactly how important technological advancement is. Not to mention the beautiful reclaimed land of Hama Rikyu which protects national risks is also located within the borders of this great city.

Hamamatsucho might not be as popular as Ginza, Shinjuku, or Shibuya nowadays but It is definitely the hidden landmark of Edo and Tokyo. At least for me Hamamatsucho is something special that I cannot be able to feel in the heart of Tokyo. It is very close and you should make a point of stopping off here when you are next traveling to Japan

Featured Photo Credit: Voyata

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