Kanpai to Fall – Japan’s New Sake Releases

Summer, adorned in robes of the ocean’s blue and the glittering gold of festive fireworks, stands ready as it awaits the changing of the seasonal guard. From the glint of his right eye appears Autumn, eloquently cloaked in the brilliant scarlets and ambers of fiery fall foliage. Providing a brief bow of respect, Summer moves away from his post as Autumn takes position. With this change, the air is no longer restless; it begins to linger, cool and steady, as though asking those in its presence to savor the time that the temperate season harbors.

In addition to the seasonal change, too, comes a welcome shift in flavor selection for Japanese sake. No longer the light, chilled drink that Summer provided, but one that is more mature and retains its essence – hiyaoroshi, the sake of fall. Kept away from Summer’s belted heat, it now offers the true, deep tones it was meant to speak: smooth, round, and rich. An eloquent companion, meant for more than meager consumption, but for reflection and understanding, mirroring Autumn’s essence.

As a time for gratitude and reflection, Fall (秋) serves as an amazing time for seasonal festivals, exquisite food, and most importantly, sake. While sake is typically served cold during the summer, the fall brings a more mature, rich brew, hiyaoroshi (冷やおろし). In honor of the changing seasons, we would like to introduce you to some of the newest releases of hiyaoroshi for this season to get you in the spirit.

The importance of Hiyaoroshi

Before diving in, here’s a brief introduction to this unique form of sake. Hiyaoroshi (冷やおろし) first emerged during the Edo period (1603-1868) as a practical method of distributing sake that had been aged during the summer time. The process consists of pasteurization in the spring and then an aging period throughout the summer before being released in the fall. This would allow the brewers not to have to go through a second pasteurization and allow the sake to retain its fresh aroma while maturing with a rich umami flavor.

The origins of the name itself reflect the process: hiya (冷, cold or room temperature) and oroshi (おろし, to lower or sell). Combined, the meaning of the word is “released at cool temperatures,” truly reflecting the refined process of the sake.

Over time, hiyaoroshi has become more than just another brewing technique – it has become essential to the fall season. It has become an integral part of cultural rituals at select shrines and temples and social gatherings for families and friends. With each bottle, an echo of the transition of the seasons, the artistry utilized, and the passing of nature’s beauty is poured into every glass.

Recommendations

Ichinokura Tokubetsu Junmai Sake Hiyaoroshi (Miyagi)

If you are looking for a soft, elegant, sweet type of sake, the Ichinokura Tokubetsu Junmai Sake Hiyaoroshi may just be for you. Founded in 1973 through the merging of two breweries, Ichinokura serves as one of Miyagi’s most popular sake makers. Their philosophy of balancing innovation with tradition has made them a pioneer in sustainable brewing and a key player in promoting Miyagi sake in domestic and international markets.

Ichinokura’s Tokubetsu Junmai Sake Hiyaoroshi is a special sake released every year for the fall season. Brewed with local Kura no Hana rice and matured through the summer, the sake delivers a soft, elegant sweetness, with a crisp green-apple taste. It is a great sake to be used for your next meal, especially with grilled meats and fish, seasonal mushrooms, and some smoked cheeses.

Aoi Tenka Hiyaoroshi Series (Shizuoka)

For those looking for a bit of the “double dip,” the Aoi Tenka Hiyaoroshi Series is an excellent choice. Based in Shizuoka, Aoi Tenka is a modern brewery that has made its mark through carefully crafting small-batch releases, applied to both their seasonal and other limited edition bottles. Their emphasis on creativity and exclusivity makes their limited edition releases an event for sake enthusiasts and newcomers alike.

For the coming fall, Aoi Tenka is presenting two hiyaoroshi bottles: the Yamada Nishiki Junmai Ginjo, offering a graceful, balanced taste, and the Omachi Junmai Ginjo, highlighting the earthy tones akin to more traditional brews, and a deeper, richer tone. Both concoctions showcase the brewery’s push to show its tasters the rich variety in flavors that rice can bring. The limited bottles pair perfectly with roasted chestnuts ( 焼き栗, yakikuri), vegetables, or an excellent hotpot dish for the whole family.

Masumi Hiyaoroshi Jinmai Ginjo Yamahai (Nagano)

Wrapping up our recommendations comes a traditional brew that embodies a more bold and balanced flavor, the Hiyaoroshi Junmai Ginjo Yamahai. Founded in 1662 in Suwa, Nagano, Masumi has served as one of Japan’s most popular sake breweries. Known for its role in developing yeast No. 7 (a strain now used across the sake world), Masumi has continued to produce refined, high-quality sake for over 350 years. With a philosophy deeply rooted in tradition and innovation, their reputation remains strong as the gold standard for sake breweries in Japan and the world.

Masumi’s Hiyaoroshi Jinmai Ginjo Yamahai is a sake that embodies the brewery’s heritage and seasonal nuance just for the occasion. Brewed in a special method, it develops a rich umami that is more layered and savory compared to the average hiyaoroshi. With a bold yet balanced flavor, the sake has hints of spice and earthiness to help make it an excellent pairing with grilled fish, matsutake mushrooms, and any hotpots meant for the season.

A smooth, yet sweet ending

Whether it is the soft, sweet crispness of Ichinokura Tokubetsu Junmai Sake Hiyaoroshi, the dual expressions showcased in Aoi Tenka’s Hiyaoroshi Series, or the traditional, yet bold taste of Masumi’s Jinmai Ginjo Yamahai, each of these sakes serves as an invitation to savor fall to its fullest potential. They stand as sake that both experts and newcomers can come together and appreciate with friends and family alike. They are not only drinks meant for the seasonal shift, but also as key pillars to what makes the fall season such a special time in Japan. So, as the cool season rolls around the corner, let’s raise a glass of hiyaoroshi and give a big kanpai to the many memories that you’ll be making in the late months of the year.

Featured Photo Credit: corn-flower

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