HOBA MISO: A LIFELINE DISH DURING JAPANESE WINTER

Hi there, today, let’s think about our health! How do you usually take care of yourself? In Japan, there are many healthy foods, such as Houmeishu, Amazake, and fermented foods. Among these, we will focus on miso.

Japanese miso has been loved for centuries for its numerous benefits including relaxation, gut health improvement, and among others, on top of its inherent beauty. “医者の金を払うよりも、みそ屋に払え” (Pay the miso seller rather than the doctor) This proverb highlights how essential miso has been to Japanese life in supporting health. In this blog post, I will introduce Hoba Miso, a traditional dish from Gifu.

What is Hoba Miso?

Hoba Miso (朴葉味噌) is a dish where homemade koji miso (味噌) is mixed with mountain vegetables, mushrooms, green onions, and various seasonings, then placed on a magnolia leaf (朴葉) and grilled.

Typically, the magnolia tree is found in Hokkaido, Honshu, Shikoku, Kyushu, and Okinawa, as well as in the central regions of China and Korea. It has the largest leaves and flowers in Japan’s broad-leaved trees, and it is known for being difficult to burn.

Additionally, the leaves have antibacterial properties and a distinctive aroma, making them not only great for wrapping food in a pleasant fragrance but also for extending their shelf life. Because of this, magnolia leaves are used in various dishes besides Hoba Miso, such as Hoba Sushi and Hoba Mochi.

The origin of Hoba Miso can be traced back to the cold winters of the Hida region, where it was traditional wisdom to use fallen leaves of Hoba and the hearth to warm food and keep it fresh during times when ingredients get frozen. Hida region miso inherits the characteristics of Kakuichi koji miso, known for its low saltiness and strong sweetness. Moreover, when heated, the combination of seasonings, ingredients, and the rich miso makes such a wonderful smell.

While today Hoba miso is widely loved by the Hida region, the original is actually from the Takayama area of Gifu. It was first commercialized in the early 1940s by Kusakabe Miso Shoyu Brewing Co., Ltd., founded in 1890. Furthermore, the region of Hida Takayama provides an ideal environment for miso production, where they have taken care to continue this traditional business. Thus, Hoba miso has become something quite special.

Unlike mass-produced supermarket miso made with conventional machinery, Kusakabe Miso Shoyu Brewing Co. Ltd. has maintained its traditional method of production since its inception, fermenting and aging its miso slowly but gently in wooden barrels. Hoba Miso is also considered exceptionally delicious when enjoyed as a snack with Japanese sake and rice. So I highly recommend you to try Hoba Miso in the Hida area.

Where to Enjoy Hoba Miso?

1. Juraku

Have you ever tried Japanese wagyu beef? Japan has various brands of beef, and Hida beef from Gifu Prefecture is particularly famous for its tenderness and flavor. At Juraku, local specialties, such as rich miso and Hida beef, have long since won customer’s hearts and minds. The combination of locally sourced ingredients is outstanding, making it a perfect choice for those who want to fully enjoy the flavors of the Hida region. It’s also a popular place among locals, so I recommend you make a reservation.

Address: https://maps.app.goo.gl/2ZGnJrF96TqyFFMT9

2. Kyo-ya

At Kyo-ya, you can enjoy a traditional atmosphere in an old Japanese house while enjoying local dishes and Hida beef. Their rich Hoba miso is something special and definitely worth trying. The dish is made with local mushrooms, mountain vegetables, and plenty of green onions. It pairs perfectly with white rice and is a favorite among tourists! The sweetness of the onions and miso doubles when grilled, making it even more delicious. Eating local cuisine will teach you a thing or two about the Hida region’s environment, lifestyle, and spirit. When you visit Gifu, be sure to try the savory and flavorful Hoba miso at Kyo-ya.

Website: http://www.kyoya-hida.jp/

Address: https://maps.app.goo.gl/cuTnEFe5k8tmDPBd9

4. Shirayamakan

Shiroyamakan is a traditional inn in Shirakawa-go that accommodates only four groups per day. It’s highly recommended if you’re looking for a place to stay during your trip to Gifu. The concept and charm of Shiroyamakan lies in the idea of “receiving the mountains.” Moreover, their signature Hoba miso which they serve for breakfast is made with ingredients from the mountain and homemade miso which has over 100 years of history. If you want to experience the natural beauty and traditional atmosphere of the mountainside, you may want to stay at Shiroyamakan!

Website: https://shiroyamakan.jp/en/

Address: https://maps.app.goo.gl/7VRPKBNtUvHG32k38

To close out and summarize what we’ve learned here, Hoba Miso is a beloved local dish and comfort food that manages to reflect the true essence of the Hida region. This historical miso with its rich aroma and signature sweetness is a definite must-try for all those visiting Gifu. There are a plethora of spots that are just waiting for you to come and sit down and try a taste of this superbly mouthwatering regional favorite. With that said, be sure to add this delicious dish to your Japan food tour!

Featured Photo Credit: 農林水産省Webサイト

If you’d like to try of variety of delicious regional Japanese cuisine, then check out our Flavors of Japan food tour in Tokyo!